As a food sophisticate I know I am supposed to adore them, but I just can’t get choked up over artichokes. Somehow they are among the most potent symbols of Spring and fine food, but few indulge in them other than marinated from a jar. The classic preparation, steamed and served with melted butter or aioli in the center for dipping, is so labor intensive as to nullify all gratification, not to forget what they do to the taste of your wine.
The globe artichoke (Cynara cardunculus) is a perennial thistle indigenous to the Mediterranean. To confront this edible bud is like preparing to do battle with a pre-historic, armour-plated beast. Just inside the thorn tipped, triangular green and purple plates are the somewhat tender, somewhat edible inner bracts. These are attached to an edible base (known saucily in the trade as bottoms). That they are high in fiber, contain vitamins C and A, as well as potassium, calcium and iron with some antioxidant Silymarin thrown in might make them more palatable for some. The immature florets at the center are what puts the choke in arti-choke, and are not edible in other than the smallest or “baby” artichokes. The persistent need to refer to puny sized vegetables and other edibles as “baby” has always smacked of repressed infanticide.
| Artichokes in America are but a fraction of what they are in Europe. In 1972 the Jordan family decided grow them commercially at Baroda Farms in California’s central coast. They grow about 100,000 pounds of the thorny thistle a year and have moved the artichoke away from its one note Globe artichoke song. If you are intent on being a student of the artichoke these are a few of the types that Baroda farms markets that you might find in a store or produce stand:
Lyon – large, green, and round; heavy and less bitter than most Fiesole – named for the town north of Florence; looks like it has been soaked in red wine; sold as “babies,” as well as in the larger size Anzio – blushing red, medium to large, best use: Carciofi alla Romana or Carciofi alla Guidia Campania - large reddish, among the largest (some over 2 pounds) Big Heart - flat-topped, bulky; the world’s first patented artichoke seed; a Dole vegetables exclusive Globe – large, menacing, larger than your fist. |
This pugnacious plant may have originally been found in the wild in the Mahgreb (North African rim) were they eventually came under cultivation. They were, we know, grown from seed by the Greeks in Sicily during Magna Graecia in the 8th and 7th centuries BCE.
The name comes from the Arabic, al-kharshuf, the Greeks called them, Kaktos (a little closer to the truth). The Romans, permanently imprinted by the Greeks, took up the artichoke “perfecting” its cultivation further and called them carciofi, while the French drift further afield with artichaut. And so on through history trundled this semi-edible thistle that, against all odds, became thought of as a luxurious, perhaps aphrodisiacal, delicacy. But then again, some people swoon over squishy sea-cucumber.
There is also artichoke as enigma. In Giorgio de Chirico’s, Philosopher’s Conquest, many of his familiar elements are in evidence: one point perspective, the steam engine train, a clock fixing time, a distant city, a shadow of a figure, corridors to nowhere. The mis en scene begins to take on another layer of irreconcilable meaning when he adds a cannon, more monument than menace, and two huge malevolent artichokes. Never did a bud seem less light.
Picasso’s, Woman with an Artichoke, offers a dissolute, grim, menacing matriarch wielding a medieval mace that is an artichoke in surreality. Her threatening index finger can only mean, “you’re next.”
At Da Gigetto, in Rome’s ghetto, Picasso surely didn’t order Carciofi alla Romana, or Carciofi coi Piselli (see recipe).
Preparing the artichoke is one of the impediments on the path to small pleasure. First pull off the most threatening, hard outer leaves. Then trim the thorns from those deemed edible and set them in acidulated water (juice of a lemon will do) to keep them from almost instantly turning brown where cut. Steam or boil in salted water until tender. Before serving, scoop out the inedible center with a teaspoon. In the resulting cavity goes the butter or sauce.
Here’s how to eat the whole steamed artichoke, one of the few dishes that eating with your fingers is permitted: fix the resplendent khaki colored artichoke in your gaze. Locate a leaf upon which you wish to start. Gently tear off the leaf, dip it in the butter or sauce and scrape the inside of the leaf against your front teeth, slowly drawing it out. In your mouth should be sauce and green pulp to enjoy. Continue until satisfied. Most artichoke fanciers carefully arrange the spent leaves decoratively around the artichoke that they are destroying one leaf at a time.
I prefer take my artichokes in their liquid state, an aperitif/digestif called, Cynar. Made from a variety of herbs and plants, artichoke is the predominant ingredient. Dark as coffee, the bittersweet drink is 33 proof and is nice over ice with a slice of orange. No ancient herbal infusion made by cloistered monks, Cynar has only been around since the 1950’s. Just the same, health claims of the naturally occurring cynarin are abundant; increases bile, aids digestion, liver and gall bladder function, helps control cholesterol (which in the eyes of some make it “heart healthy”). One tipsy tonic, I’d say. Originally marketed to help deal with the “stress of the modern age” — just taking away the stress of eating an artichoke is good enough for me.
Recipes
Some things you can do with Artichokes fresh and otherwise.
| Classic Hot Crab & Artichoke Dip |
one 9-oz package frozen artichoke hearts 1 small red bell pepper, finely chopped 3 tbs butter 2 tbs flour 1 1/4 cups half-and-half 4 scallions, sliced thinly 3/4 cup pecorino Romano cheese, grated juice of a lemon 2 jalapeño peppers, minced (optional) 1/4 tsp Old Bay® seasoning (or some paprika, cayenne pepper and celery salt) 1 lb or so lump crabmeat, picked over for shells Pita chips Preheat oven to 375°F. Butter a 1 1/5 quart baking dish suitable for display. Cook artichoke hearts according to package instructions, drain well and chop. Sauté bell pepper in 1 tablespoon butter until softened, 4-5 minutes. Stir in artichokes and transfer mixture to a bowl. Melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter in saucepan over gentle heat; add flour to make a roux, and cook stirring, 3 -4 minutes. Add half-and-half in a stream, whisking, and bring to a boil. Lower heat and continue whisking another 3-4 minutes until thickened. Remove from heat, stir in artichoke mixture, scallions, 3/4 of the grated cheese, lemon juice, jalapeños, salt, and the Old Bay®. Fold in crab. Transfer to a buttered 1 1/2-quart shallow baking dish and sprinkle with remaining cheese. Bake until bubbling hot, 20 to 25 minutes. Serve warm with pita or other sturdy dipping chips. http://www.flickr.com/photos/fsmomaha/2945034328/
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| Stuffed Artichokes |
| for 4 4 large, full-size artichokes  1 lemon, halved 1 3⁄4 cups dried breadcrumbs 1 cup pecorino Romano, grated 1⁄3 cup Italian flat-leaf parsley, chopped 2tbs fresh oregano, chopped 2 tsp sea salt 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper 8 cloves garlic, minced 5 tbs good (not EVOO) olive oil Cut artichoke stems to create a flat bottom. Cut off top third of artichokes, pull off tough outermost leaves, and trim tips of leaves with kitchen shears. Rub cut parts with lemon halves to prevent browning. Gently separate artichoke leaves making room for stuffing and set aside. Heat oven to 425°. In a large bowl, combine breadcrumbs, 3/4 cup pecorino Romano, parsley, oregano, salt, pepper, and garlic. Working with one artichoke at a time over bowl, sprinkle one-quarter of breadcrumb mixture over the artichoke and work it in between leaves. Transfer stuffed artichoke to a shallow baking dish. Drizzle each artichoke with 1 tablespoon oil. Add boiling water to a depth of 1". Rub a sheet of aluminum foil with some olive oil and cover artichokes oiled side down; secure foil tightly around dish with kitchen twine so they will steam. Bake until a knife easily slides into the base of an artichoke, about 45 minutes. Remove foil. Sprinkle tops with remaining cheese and broil until tops of artichokes are golden brown, about 3 minutes. http://www.flickr.com/photos/chuckfalzone/4452153013/sizes/l/
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| Green Fettuccine with Artichokes and Chicken |
| for 4 Juice of 1 lemon  15 baby artichokes 3 tbs olive oil 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 small carrot, finely chopped sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 4 boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into bite-sized morsels 1 tbs tomato paste 1⁄4 cup white balsamic vinegar 4 tbs tarragon leaves, chopped 3 cups good chicken broth 1 lb spinach fettuccine 3⁄4 cup pecorino Romano cheese, grated Trim away tough outer leaves of the artichokes to expose their tender, pale green interior. Put trimmed artichokes into acidulated (lemon) water and set aside. In a heavy bottomed pot gently sauté the garlic and carrots and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 8 minutes. Season the chicken with salt and pepper. Add to the pan and cook until chicken is lightly browned, about 6 minutes. Add the vinegar and tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly, until liquid has evaporated, about 1 minute. Drain the artichokes and add them, along with 2 tablespoons of tarragon and the chicken broth, to the pot. Bring broth to a boil and reduce heat. Simmer until chicken and artichokes are very tender and the broth has reduced by half, about 40 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and set sauce aside. Meanwhile, bring a pot of well-salted water to a boil. Add pasta and cook until al dente, about 7 minutes. Reserve 1 cup pasta water. Drain pasta and transfer to pot with artichoke and chicken sauce. Bring sauce to a boil, stir in 1⁄2 cup pecorino romano and cook, tossing occasionally with tongs, until sauce thickens and clings to pasta, about 2 minutes. (If sauce is too dry, moisten with some reserved pasta water.) Add remaining tarragon and season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer pasta to 4 warmed bowls and pass the grated cheese and the pepper mill. http://www.recipe.com/fettuccine-with-chicken-and-artichoke-hearts/
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| Carciofi coi Piselli alla Romana (Artichokes and peas Roman style) |
| Two vegetable favorites of the Romans in one dish. 6 medium globe artichokes 1 lemon quartered 1 large onion 4-6 prosciutto slices, chopped 5 tbs good olive oil 3 sprigs of fresh mint, chopped 3 (or more) cloves garlic, chopped 2 cups fresh peas salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 2 tbs parsley for garnish, minced Trim the artichokes of the outermost layer and cut of all the pointy tips. Cut the artichoke in half and remove the furry 'choke'. Soak in cold water with the lemon for about 30 minutes. Sauté the onion and garlic in olive oil until translucent. Add the prosciutto and cook another 3 minutes, then add the mint. Drain the artichokes and add them to the pan. Season with salt and pepper, add a quarter cup of water and cover. Cook gently about 15 minutes adding water if necessary. When the artichokes are just tender add the peas and cook another ten minutes or until both vegetables are tender. Sprinkle with minced parsley. May be served hot, warm or cold. |
| Artichoke & Orange Salad |
| for 6 24 baby artichokes, trimmed 4 large oranges 3 tbs extra-virgin olive oil 2 tbs balsamic vinegar freshly ground black pepper 1 small red onion, thinly sliced 3/4 cup Kalamata olives or other brine-cured black olives Drain artichokes. Cook in large pot of boiling salted water 4 minutes. Drain and cool. Cut into thin slices. Grate the peel of 2 oranges into a bowl. Squeeze the juice from an orange into the bowl. Mix oil and vinegar into orange juice mixture in bowl. Season with salt and black pepper. Mix in artichokes and onion. Let stand 10 minutes. Using a sharp paring knife, cut off peel and pith from remaining 2 oranges. Cut oranges 1/4-inch-thick slices (or perfect segments); set aside. Using slotted spoon, remove and arrange artichokes and onions on a serving dish. Garnish with orange slices and olives. Whisk orange juice vinaigrette to re-emulsify and drizzle over salad. Don’t over dress.
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Edward Bottone, a food and lifestyle journalist, is Chef/Instructor in the Culinary Arts program at Drexel University and has been a radio talk show host and TV presenter, and is also a food stylist and photographer.
Article image from dreamstime.com: recipe photos from recipes.com, fsmomaha and chuckfalzone via Flickr (Creative Commons) "The Cantankerous Cook" photograph from Hulton Archive/Getty Images, "Plate" photograph from FoodCollection/Getty Images.
