Not a shooter, not a cordial, not a digestif, and most importantly, not root beer, the spirit Root seems easiest to define by stating what it is not. In a category of its own, does this organic spirit stand scrutiny and join the realm of favorites, or take a back shelf to more familiar flavors? Let's see.

So what is it? Root is from Art In The Age, a brand owned by William Grant & Sons, who have also brought you Sailor Jerry Rum and Hendrick’s Gin . Laura Price, of Art in the Age, states, “Root is inspired by an 18th century Pennsylvania folk recipe, which eventually evolved into Birch or Root Beer. It is the first true American liqueur since the Volstead Act in 1919.”

Like in root tea, 195-proof, distilled cane sugar is mixed with distilled water, birch bark, anise, cloves, cardamom, spearmint, and citrus. Root’s more aggressive flavors all macerate in the same pot while the water dilutes the 195 proof down to a manageable, accessible 80 proof.

The finished product is distinct. First time tasters are either struck with adoration or nose-wrinkling disrelish.

Served neat at room temperature, the spirit’s nose is full of bark. Root is clean and full of what Price describes as, “peppery herbaciousness.” Spice, citrus, and vanilla bean round into a full-mouth feel, while cane sugar imparts a vague sweetness. The sugars lightly embrace the tongue, resulting in a long medium-dry finish. The overall effect? Warm, spicy, and unique.

Falling for its flavor is only half the battle, for Root is still finding its niche in the cocktail scene. Jason Wilson, spirit columnist for the Washington Post, appreciates its potential as a digestif, calling it an American Amaro. But Root is less sweet than Amaro-Averna, and lighter in texture, lacking Averna’s tongue-coating caramel notes. Root is also more expensive at $32.99 a bottle. 64 proof Amaro is only $22.99. Is Root worth the higher price?

Christian Gaal, bartender for Noble American Cookery, has had little trouble justifying the spike. With a full beard, reminiscent of a Hindu guru, Gaal draws on a background as an informed cocktail nerd to incorporate Root’s unique flavor and high proof into clever cocktails. Suit jacket, maroon kerchief, and colorful button down, he glances over his dark-rimed glasses as he tosses knowledge across Noble’s handsome 400-year old Bubinga tree bar.

“You just cannot drop Root into a pre-existing recipe,” Gaal explained, “It must be something tailor made that will work with and not hide the flavors.” Ethanol, like fat, is an intensifier; Root’s high proof carries the flavors with strength, making it an excellent mixing spirit.

Use Root as an excuse to experiment and transform traditional cocktails. Combine vermouth, apple brandy, and Root (it will replace the bitters) for a quirky Manhattan. Its warmth compliments cherry, ginger, apple, and mango, so let its cinnamon stand in for the spice and spike your Sangria. Speaking of cinnamon, try splashing Root into a Zombie Tiki drink. Complimentary to white spirits such as gin, tequila, and vodka, dare friends to identify this uniqur flavor in their favorite cocktail.

Root’s flavors hold their own in the heat of the kitchen as well. Noble Chef, Brinn Sinnot, played on its notes of cinnamon to compliment mushroom in an asparagus dish, while its warming spice forms a toothsome unity with pork loin. Working surprisingly well with fat, whip it into a savory ice cream, swirl it into a milkshake, or put a splash in an emulsion sauce.

“There is a certain culture in the service industry that will encourage exploration,” advises Gaal. With more to offer than a shooter and with more mixing potential than a digestif, break down Volstead’s Berlin Wall with a glass served neat. An audacious spirit complimenting the brave, sip thrice to taste all flavors before you forgo the $33 plunge and fear of the unknown. The following two recipes are just another step in the right direction.